Now that I’m into my seventh month into Togo, with four months at post under my belt, you’d think I’d have established some kind of schedule or daily routine. Not exactly. Most days I wake up with a general idea of what I’m going to do but for the most part I take each day hour by hour. This lack of consistency has actually worked pretty well so far—it keeps me on my toes and I’m never actually bored. Sometimes lazy but never bored.
My day normally begins between 6:30 and 7. If I sleep past 7 it’s because I put earplugs in or I went to sleep much later than usual or for some reason someone hasn’t come by to say good morning or any combination of the three. Although I (still) don’t consider myself a morning person, I’m usually in a pretty decent mood when the time comes to rise and shine. I sometimes make breakfast (scrambled eggs or pancakes, when flour and eggs are at hand), sometimes I eat leftovers from the night before, sometimes Tanti brings over food, or sometimes I get right to cleaning. On light cleaning days I at least sweep both rooms and wash any dishes that need to be washed and tidy around. Two to three times a week I do laundry and sweep extra meticulously and tidy certain areas I tend to neglect. If it’s Monday or Wednesday, my cleaning is broken up by my going to school for French tutoring (tues, wed) and/or teaching class (mon, wed). I’m normally done with all that by noon or 1 and from then on a variety of possible activities ensue:
reading (I’ve read more books the past tree months than I have then past three years), fetching water with Tanti (although now that the rain has started this doesn’t happen as often), cooking (my favorite dish I’ve made so far: a killer peanut sauce I half followed a recipe for, half made up), going to say hi to people around village (should do this more often), enjoying a nice bucket shower, writing to people, helping the neighbors make gari (ground up manioc that’s made grainy by cooking it over fire… it has absolutely no nutritional value but I love adding it to a lot of different dishes), having a dance party, hanging out with kids, going to the marché if it’s Tuesday, and recently, I’ve started to knit again and try to learn to play the guitar—both thanks to purchases I made at a recent PCV event.
Every other week or so I’ve tried to visit Alicia in Tchifama (about 7K away) on Wednesdays (her marché day) and usually end up staying the night. We have a good time together and her company has probably helped my sanity level more normal than it might have otherwise been at times. Not to mention I absolutely love her family in Tchifama. She lives with the chief and two of his four wives and 19 kids. Love them all. I haven’t spent very many full weekends in M’Poti – I’ll either go to Pagala (25K) or Atakpamé (about 100K) to pick up mail, buy things I can’t get in M’Poti (pretty much anything other than tomatoes, onions, and garlic), check email, and spend some quality time with my much loved clustermates and other fabulous PCVs.
This regularly inconsistent schedule was interrupted a few weeks ago by the ending of the schools’ second trimester, a week of Peace Corps events, a visit by my APCD and National Director, and now a week of voyaging. This break came at a good time has given me a different outlook on village life. Things are looking up!
Saturday, April 5, 2008
Thursday, February 7, 2008
stop trying to save africa
Here is an article I read in a Peace Corps newletter that I thought was worth posting. I have mixed thoughts on the point of view presented, but I won't post those right now.
Here it is:
Stop Trying to Save Africa
by Uzodinma Iweala (author of " Beasts of No Nation, " a novel about child soldiers)
Last fall, shortly after I returned from Nigeria, I was accosted by a perky blond college student whose blue eyes seemed to match the " African " beads around her wrists.
" Save Darfur ! " she shouted from behind a table covered with pamphlets urging to TAKE ACTION NOW ! STOP GENODICE IN DARFUR !
My aversion to college kids jumping onto fashionable social causes nearly caused me to walk on, but her next shout stopped me.
" Don’t you want to help us save Africa ? " she yelled.
It seems that these days, wracked by guilt at the humanitarian crisis it has created in the Middle East, the West has turned to Africa for redemption. Idealistic college students, celebrities such as Bob Geldof and politicians such as Tony Blair have all made bringing light to the dark continent their mission. They fly in for internships and fact-finding missions or to pick out children to adopt in much the same way my friends and I in New York take the subway to the pound to adopt stray dogs.
This is the West’s new image of itself : a sexy, politically active generation whose preferred means of spreading the word are magazine spreads with celebrities pictured in the foreground, forlorn Africans in the back. Never mind that the stars sent to bring succor to the natives often are, willingly, as emaciated as those they want to help.
Perhaps most interesting is the language used to describe the Africa being saved. For example, the Keep a Child Alive/ " I am African " ad campaign features portraits of primarily white, Western celebrities with painted " tribal markings " on their faces above " I AM AFRICAN " in bold letters. Below, smaller print says, " help us stop the dying. "
Such campaigns, however well intentioned, promote the stereotype of Africa as a black hold of disease and death. News reports constantly focus on the continent’s corrupt leaders, warlords, " trival " conflicts, child laborers, and women disfigured by abuse and genital mutilation. These descriptionsrun under headlines like " Can Bono Save Africa ? " or " Will Brangelina Save Africa ? " The relationship between the West and Africa is no longer based on openly racist beliefs, but such articles are reminiscent of reports from the heyday of European colonialism, when missionaries were sent to Africa to introduce us to education, Jesus Christ and " civilization. "
There is no African, myself included, who does not appreciate the help of the wider world, but we do question whether aid is genuine or given in the spirit of affirming one’s cultural superiority. My mood is dampened every time I attend a benefit whose host runs through a litany of African disasters before presenting a (usually) wealthy, white person, who often proceeds to list the things he or she has done for the poor, starving Africans. Every time a well-meaning college student speaks of villagers dancing because they were so grateful for her help, I cringe. Every time a Hollywood director shoots a film about Africa that features a Western protagonist, I shake my head—because Africans, real people though we may be, are used as props in the West’s prominent role in creating many of the unfortunate situations on the continent, they also ignore the incredible work Africans have done and continue to do to fix those problems.
Why do the media frequently refer to African countries as having been " granted independence from their colonial masters, " as opposed to having fought and shed blood for their freedom ? Why do Angelina Jolie and Bono receive overwhelming attention for their work in Africa while Nwankwo Kanu or Dikembe Mutombo, Africans both, are hardly ever mentioned ? How is it that a former mid-level U.S. diplomat receives more attentionfor his cowboy antics in Sudan than do the numerous African Union countries that have sent food and troops and spent countless hours trying to negotiate a settlement among all parties in that crisis ?
Two years ago I worked in a camp for internally displaced people in Nigeria, survivors of an uprising that killed about 1,000 people and displaced 200,000. True to form, the Western media reported on the violence but not on the humanitarian work the state and local governments—without much international help—did for the survivors. Social workers spent their time and in many cases their own salaries to care for their compatriots. These are the people saving Africa, and others like them across the continent get no credit for their work.
Last month the Group of Eight industrialized nations and a host of celebrities met in Germany to discuss, among other things, how to save Africa. Before the next such summit, I hope people will realize Arica doesn’t want to be saved. Africa wants the world to acknowledge that through fair partnerships with other members of the global community, we ourselves are capable of unprecedented growth.
Here it is:
Stop Trying to Save Africa
by Uzodinma Iweala (author of " Beasts of No Nation, " a novel about child soldiers)
Last fall, shortly after I returned from Nigeria, I was accosted by a perky blond college student whose blue eyes seemed to match the " African " beads around her wrists.
" Save Darfur ! " she shouted from behind a table covered with pamphlets urging to TAKE ACTION NOW ! STOP GENODICE IN DARFUR !
My aversion to college kids jumping onto fashionable social causes nearly caused me to walk on, but her next shout stopped me.
" Don’t you want to help us save Africa ? " she yelled.
It seems that these days, wracked by guilt at the humanitarian crisis it has created in the Middle East, the West has turned to Africa for redemption. Idealistic college students, celebrities such as Bob Geldof and politicians such as Tony Blair have all made bringing light to the dark continent their mission. They fly in for internships and fact-finding missions or to pick out children to adopt in much the same way my friends and I in New York take the subway to the pound to adopt stray dogs.
This is the West’s new image of itself : a sexy, politically active generation whose preferred means of spreading the word are magazine spreads with celebrities pictured in the foreground, forlorn Africans in the back. Never mind that the stars sent to bring succor to the natives often are, willingly, as emaciated as those they want to help.
Perhaps most interesting is the language used to describe the Africa being saved. For example, the Keep a Child Alive/ " I am African " ad campaign features portraits of primarily white, Western celebrities with painted " tribal markings " on their faces above " I AM AFRICAN " in bold letters. Below, smaller print says, " help us stop the dying. "
Such campaigns, however well intentioned, promote the stereotype of Africa as a black hold of disease and death. News reports constantly focus on the continent’s corrupt leaders, warlords, " trival " conflicts, child laborers, and women disfigured by abuse and genital mutilation. These descriptionsrun under headlines like " Can Bono Save Africa ? " or " Will Brangelina Save Africa ? " The relationship between the West and Africa is no longer based on openly racist beliefs, but such articles are reminiscent of reports from the heyday of European colonialism, when missionaries were sent to Africa to introduce us to education, Jesus Christ and " civilization. "
There is no African, myself included, who does not appreciate the help of the wider world, but we do question whether aid is genuine or given in the spirit of affirming one’s cultural superiority. My mood is dampened every time I attend a benefit whose host runs through a litany of African disasters before presenting a (usually) wealthy, white person, who often proceeds to list the things he or she has done for the poor, starving Africans. Every time a well-meaning college student speaks of villagers dancing because they were so grateful for her help, I cringe. Every time a Hollywood director shoots a film about Africa that features a Western protagonist, I shake my head—because Africans, real people though we may be, are used as props in the West’s prominent role in creating many of the unfortunate situations on the continent, they also ignore the incredible work Africans have done and continue to do to fix those problems.
Why do the media frequently refer to African countries as having been " granted independence from their colonial masters, " as opposed to having fought and shed blood for their freedom ? Why do Angelina Jolie and Bono receive overwhelming attention for their work in Africa while Nwankwo Kanu or Dikembe Mutombo, Africans both, are hardly ever mentioned ? How is it that a former mid-level U.S. diplomat receives more attentionfor his cowboy antics in Sudan than do the numerous African Union countries that have sent food and troops and spent countless hours trying to negotiate a settlement among all parties in that crisis ?
Two years ago I worked in a camp for internally displaced people in Nigeria, survivors of an uprising that killed about 1,000 people and displaced 200,000. True to form, the Western media reported on the violence but not on the humanitarian work the state and local governments—without much international help—did for the survivors. Social workers spent their time and in many cases their own salaries to care for their compatriots. These are the people saving Africa, and others like them across the continent get no credit for their work.
Last month the Group of Eight industrialized nations and a host of celebrities met in Germany to discuss, among other things, how to save Africa. Before the next such summit, I hope people will realize Arica doesn’t want to be saved. Africa wants the world to acknowledge that through fair partnerships with other members of the global community, we ourselves are capable of unprecedented growth.
working hard… ou bien ?
With a few CEG classes taught, community meetings had, and some developing potential ideas, I feel like I am starting to get into a good rhythm of formal work. And I mean that in the most optimistic way possible. About class. As I previously mentioned, I am going to be teaching two classes, about the equivalent of sixth and seventh grade, on lifeskills. So far we’ve talked about relationships in general, more specificially about characteristics of a good friend and peer pressure, and about managing emotions. Let’s just say that it’s been a good learning experience, hopefully for them but most definitely for me.
The sixième class is the first class in CEG, so generally the kids are younger, which means their French is about as good as mine. This makes it hard to communicate well since they’re trying to understand a non-native language coming from a non-native speaker. Not to mention the fact that these are relatively abstract subjects coming at them in an informal and unfamiliar way. The predominent (I want to say almost exclusive) teaching method used is lecture and memorization. I try to be conscious of this when I plan my lessons, but I also want to make it as participatory and interesting as possible while still maintaining order, which has proved to be a challenge for a number of reasons. Between the two classes, cinquième has been the harder of the two, because of some particular personalities plus the number (76 !) of students in the class. The nice thing about this class is that since they are one more year into CEG, their French level is better which makes it easier to communicate. Another nice thing about cinquième is there are a few students I know fairly well outside of class. I’ll leave this CEG, lifeskills class thing on a positive note. Moving on.
I’ve had three meetings with people from the same quartier and I would say they’ve gone pretty well, all things considered. They’ve been short, somewhat organized, and to the point. My purpose in holding the meetings in the first place (after some abiguity on my part) was to get an idea of what they believe and the community’s needs and see what kind of work can be done to meet, or address, those needs. I’ve learned how difficult it is to facilitate this kind of conversation and come up with concrete, feasible ideas. At this point I need to get myself better organized and better at discerning actual needs versus nonpressing desires. I hope the community will be serious about getting organized with me and honest about their needs. Please pray that this be the case.
My developing ideas are, well, developing, so I’ll share those as they progress. That’s that.
Doing everyday life has been a challenge in itself, but how does the saying go? What doesn't kill you only makes you stronger, right? Well, I'm still alive and hopefully stronger than I was before I started.
The sixième class is the first class in CEG, so generally the kids are younger, which means their French is about as good as mine. This makes it hard to communicate well since they’re trying to understand a non-native language coming from a non-native speaker. Not to mention the fact that these are relatively abstract subjects coming at them in an informal and unfamiliar way. The predominent (I want to say almost exclusive) teaching method used is lecture and memorization. I try to be conscious of this when I plan my lessons, but I also want to make it as participatory and interesting as possible while still maintaining order, which has proved to be a challenge for a number of reasons. Between the two classes, cinquième has been the harder of the two, because of some particular personalities plus the number (76 !) of students in the class. The nice thing about this class is that since they are one more year into CEG, their French level is better which makes it easier to communicate. Another nice thing about cinquième is there are a few students I know fairly well outside of class. I’ll leave this CEG, lifeskills class thing on a positive note. Moving on.
I’ve had three meetings with people from the same quartier and I would say they’ve gone pretty well, all things considered. They’ve been short, somewhat organized, and to the point. My purpose in holding the meetings in the first place (after some abiguity on my part) was to get an idea of what they believe and the community’s needs and see what kind of work can be done to meet, or address, those needs. I’ve learned how difficult it is to facilitate this kind of conversation and come up with concrete, feasible ideas. At this point I need to get myself better organized and better at discerning actual needs versus nonpressing desires. I hope the community will be serious about getting organized with me and honest about their needs. Please pray that this be the case.
My developing ideas are, well, developing, so I’ll share those as they progress. That’s that.
Doing everyday life has been a challenge in itself, but how does the saying go? What doesn't kill you only makes you stronger, right? Well, I'm still alive and hopefully stronger than I was before I started.
Friday, January 18, 2008
recommended reading
I just finished reading The Poinsonwood Bible, which I want to take a moment and highly recommend. The novel is " a story told by the wife and four daughters of Nathan Price, a fierce, evangelical Baptist who takes his family and mission to the Belgian Congo in 1959. They carry with them everything they believe they will need from home, but soon find that all of it—from garden seeds to Scripture—is calamitously transformed on Afrcian soil. What follows is a suspenseful epic of one family’s tragic undoing and remarkable reconstruction over the corse o thress decades in postcolonial Africa… " Barbara Kingsolver is an amazing writer and reading this novel at this point in my life was incredible because I could relate to a good deal of the experiences described in more than one way. There are so many quotes from the book that stood out to me, but I’ll just share one passage and leave the rest of the book to your own reading.
" Think of all the duties that were perfectly obvious to Paul or Mathew in that old Arabian desert that are pure nonesense to us now. All that oot washing, for example. Was it really for God’s glory, or just to keep the sand out of the house ?…Oh, and the camel. Was it a camel that could pass trhough the eye of the needle more easily than a rich man ? Or a coarse peice of yarn ? The Hebrew words are the same, but which one did they mean ? If it’s a camel, the rich man might as well not even try. But if it’s the yarn, he might well succeed with a lot of effort, you see ?… When I want to take God at his word exactly, I take a peep out the window at His Creation. Because that, darling, He makes fresh for us everyday, with out a lot of dublous middle managers. "
I just finished (almost all in one very lazy day) Nickel and Dimed, a journalists’ experience trying to get by in the poor working class in America, definitely worth reading. I wish so many of the people that I talk to here that think everyone in the US is rich and they would be too if they were able to get over there could read it also.
Just today I picked up (or got handed, actually) Fight Club by Chuck Palahniuk. I’ve heard good things about the book and thought the change in genre might be good. I’ll hopefully get through it this weekend and start on Blink—content and evaluation TBA.
" Think of all the duties that were perfectly obvious to Paul or Mathew in that old Arabian desert that are pure nonesense to us now. All that oot washing, for example. Was it really for God’s glory, or just to keep the sand out of the house ?…Oh, and the camel. Was it a camel that could pass trhough the eye of the needle more easily than a rich man ? Or a coarse peice of yarn ? The Hebrew words are the same, but which one did they mean ? If it’s a camel, the rich man might as well not even try. But if it’s the yarn, he might well succeed with a lot of effort, you see ?… When I want to take God at his word exactly, I take a peep out the window at His Creation. Because that, darling, He makes fresh for us everyday, with out a lot of dublous middle managers. "
I just finished (almost all in one very lazy day) Nickel and Dimed, a journalists’ experience trying to get by in the poor working class in America, definitely worth reading. I wish so many of the people that I talk to here that think everyone in the US is rich and they would be too if they were able to get over there could read it also.
Just today I picked up (or got handed, actually) Fight Club by Chuck Palahniuk. I’ve heard good things about the book and thought the change in genre might be good. I’ll hopefully get through it this weekend and start on Blink—content and evaluation TBA.
things said by other people I have recently come across that i thought were interesting
" Life in the Peace Corps will not be easy. There will be no salary and allowances will be at a level sufficient only to maintain health and meet basic needs. Men and women will be expected to work and live alongside the nationals of the country in which they are stationed – doing the same work, eating the same food, talking the same language.
But if the life will not be easy, it will be rich and satisfying. For every young American who participates in the Peace Corps—who works in a foreign land—will know that he or she is sharing in the great common task o bringing to man that decent way of life which is the foundation of freedom and a condition of peace. "
-John F. Kennedy offering an inspirational (though a bit rosy) description of what the Peace Corps is about. Whether or not this is accurate varies from program to program and volunteer to volunteer.
" Peace Corps training is like no other training in the world, having something in common with college life, officer’s training, Marine basic training, and a ninety day jail sentence. "
-Mortiz Thomsen from his book Living Poor on PC training. Very true in an exaggerated king of way. Although, I feel this is a better description of what life as a student in the CEG is like.
" Education is the most powerful weapon you can use to change the world. It is also a weapon that the world cannot do without in the fight against AIDS. Education saves lives. "
-Nelson Mandela on why education is a weapon. I don’t like weapons, but I want to help save lives. Couldn’t he just have called it a tool?
" Question : In what sense do you think that outside help is useful ?
Answer : We need outside help for analysis and understanding of our situation and experience, but not or telling us what we should do. An outsider who comes with ready-made solutions and advice is worse than useless. He must first understand rom us what our questions are, and help us articulate the questions better, and then help us find solutions. Outsiders also have to change. He alone is friend who helps us to think about our problems on our own. "
-From a diologue with activists of the Bhoomi Seng Movement in India. I like this grassroots approach, but it’s a lot more difficult in practice than most people probably realize. Lots of patience required.
But if the life will not be easy, it will be rich and satisfying. For every young American who participates in the Peace Corps—who works in a foreign land—will know that he or she is sharing in the great common task o bringing to man that decent way of life which is the foundation of freedom and a condition of peace. "
-John F. Kennedy offering an inspirational (though a bit rosy) description of what the Peace Corps is about. Whether or not this is accurate varies from program to program and volunteer to volunteer.
" Peace Corps training is like no other training in the world, having something in common with college life, officer’s training, Marine basic training, and a ninety day jail sentence. "
-Mortiz Thomsen from his book Living Poor on PC training. Very true in an exaggerated king of way. Although, I feel this is a better description of what life as a student in the CEG is like.
" Education is the most powerful weapon you can use to change the world. It is also a weapon that the world cannot do without in the fight against AIDS. Education saves lives. "
-Nelson Mandela on why education is a weapon. I don’t like weapons, but I want to help save lives. Couldn’t he just have called it a tool?
" Question : In what sense do you think that outside help is useful ?
Answer : We need outside help for analysis and understanding of our situation and experience, but not or telling us what we should do. An outsider who comes with ready-made solutions and advice is worse than useless. He must first understand rom us what our questions are, and help us articulate the questions better, and then help us find solutions. Outsiders also have to change. He alone is friend who helps us to think about our problems on our own. "
-From a diologue with activists of the Bhoomi Seng Movement in India. I like this grassroots approach, but it’s a lot more difficult in practice than most people probably realize. Lots of patience required.
i was thinking the other day…
there are certain phobias that probably don’t exist in Togo : germaphobia, agoraphobia, claustrophobia, or any fear related to bugs, spiders, kids, or being on time. Fortunately for me, my phobia level in all of these are very low to non-existent.
why, hello there.
I’ve now been in village for over a month and things are looking up. I’m getting to know people, people are getting to know me, and there always seems to be something to do. With all the Chrismas and New Years parties going on (which mostly consisted of lots of music and lots of fufu. Happy New Year !), I’ve only just started to do more formal type work and I’m hoping to expand that in the upcoming weeks.
About a week and a half ago, I had a meeting with people from one of the quartiers (or neighborhoods) and that was … a good learning experience. I wasn’t entirely sure what we were supposed to be talking about or what my counterpart (Koffi) expected to accomplish, so when it was time to start the meeting and he told me I had the floor, I did my best to keep it as general as possible and ask questions to spur discussion. The goal of the meeting ended up being to decide when would be a good time to meet again, but since there was another quartier meeting going on at the same time, they thought there was an underrepresentation of voices. SO they decided we should meet the next week at the same time to further the discussion. That eneded up being last Wednesday and everyone, including my counterpart, forgot about the meeting, so it’s postponed until next week. Lesson learned : verify with people the day before a meeting to make sure it’s still on.
Last Monday I was supposed to start teaching in the CEG, but the school director wasn’t there, so for reasons I didn’t quite understand, Koffi said I should wait until Wednesday. I did and Wednesday came around and the director was still gone, but this time Koffi said that I could go teach if I wanted. So I did. It went ok. My idea was to just introduce myself, try to get the students’ names, and go over what we would be doing for the rest of the year, which is more or less what ended up happening. The plan is that I’ll be teaching Life Skills (good communication, healthy relationships, how to make good decisions, share health/HIV/AIDS information, etc) on Monday to sixième students and on Wednesday to cinquième students (roughly the equivalent of 6th and 8th grade). The English teacher and I also went around to all the CEG classes and said we would be starting an English club next week. I’m not really sure what we’ll be doing in it specificially (should I be worried that this tends to be the case in a lot of situations ?…), but I figure I’ve got a good enough grasp on the English language to be able to figure something out.
The work I’m doing is to promote young girls’ education and empowerment, but that doesn’t mean that I’m only going to be working with young girls. This is the work of the whole community and there are numberous approaches I can take, which, I’ve been told, is both the greatest strength and weakness of the program. I’m looking forward to seeing what my work ends up looking like.
About a week and a half ago, I had a meeting with people from one of the quartiers (or neighborhoods) and that was … a good learning experience. I wasn’t entirely sure what we were supposed to be talking about or what my counterpart (Koffi) expected to accomplish, so when it was time to start the meeting and he told me I had the floor, I did my best to keep it as general as possible and ask questions to spur discussion. The goal of the meeting ended up being to decide when would be a good time to meet again, but since there was another quartier meeting going on at the same time, they thought there was an underrepresentation of voices. SO they decided we should meet the next week at the same time to further the discussion. That eneded up being last Wednesday and everyone, including my counterpart, forgot about the meeting, so it’s postponed until next week. Lesson learned : verify with people the day before a meeting to make sure it’s still on.
Last Monday I was supposed to start teaching in the CEG, but the school director wasn’t there, so for reasons I didn’t quite understand, Koffi said I should wait until Wednesday. I did and Wednesday came around and the director was still gone, but this time Koffi said that I could go teach if I wanted. So I did. It went ok. My idea was to just introduce myself, try to get the students’ names, and go over what we would be doing for the rest of the year, which is more or less what ended up happening. The plan is that I’ll be teaching Life Skills (good communication, healthy relationships, how to make good decisions, share health/HIV/AIDS information, etc) on Monday to sixième students and on Wednesday to cinquième students (roughly the equivalent of 6th and 8th grade). The English teacher and I also went around to all the CEG classes and said we would be starting an English club next week. I’m not really sure what we’ll be doing in it specificially (should I be worried that this tends to be the case in a lot of situations ?…), but I figure I’ve got a good enough grasp on the English language to be able to figure something out.
The work I’m doing is to promote young girls’ education and empowerment, but that doesn’t mean that I’m only going to be working with young girls. This is the work of the whole community and there are numberous approaches I can take, which, I’ve been told, is both the greatest strength and weakness of the program. I’m looking forward to seeing what my work ends up looking like.
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